Places and rituals

August: Month of Pachamama

No doubt when we travel, we dream of visiting different and almost magical places that are out of the ordinary; We seek adventure, traditions and new customs;  We want to meet new people, and face challenges of climate and infrastructure and create new memories through the awakening of our senses.

Bolivia is mystical, exotic and modern. It is a place where there is always something to see, visit and do. Places have exotic names such as ‘The Death Road’, ‘The Witches Market’, ‘Laguna Colorada’ etc, and there a multitude of holidays and festivals throughout the year. If there happens to be a month with no special day, then it is up to commercial enterprises to create a new one. Holidays range from the more common celebrations such as Christmas and New Year, to some more popular Latin America ones such as the ‘Day of the Dead’, ‘All Saints’, ‘Carnival´. Due to the cultural symbiosis that we have, there is always a good cause for celebration, such as in August which is the month of Pachamama.

Pachamama is the goddess of the Earth. According to the yatiris or wise Aymaras, August is regarded as the period of the Laqan pajxi (month of the open mouth), because it is the time when Pachamama opens her mouth to receive offerings.  The Andean cosmovision teaches us that everything has a soul, that everything lives, and goes on living after death.  This is not only true of people but of tools and utensils, and of the land and the hills. The offering given to Pachamama (Mother Earth) is called Koa and is made up of sweets, koa (a ceremonial plant), coloured wood, untu (camelid fat), "mysteries" or symbols from kallawaya and aymaran culture, coca leaves, as well as a sullus or llama foetus.   They are offered to Pachamama as a symbol of appreciation for the agricultural production in rural areas, and to the prosperity of business, health and family in cities.

Pachamama is the highest divinity of the Andean people, because, in addition to providing protection, she alludes to fertility, abundance, femininity, generosity, and the maturity of crops. The term Pachamama translates as ‘Mother Earth’ - Pacha is a Quechua and Aymaran word which means Earth, Mara translate as cosmos, universe, time, and space, and Mama means Mother.

The concept of Pachamama is directly related to agrarian wealth, as the economy of the native people is based largely on agricultural production. However, a large part of the urban population maintains that their customs and beliefs are still valid in modern society. These beliefs have undergone some changes though,  in order to exist alongside the Catholic faith and in some ceremonies, Pachamama worship is even done through the Virgin Mary.

In Andean culture, Pachamama is the protective goddess of all material goods and, at the same time, master of the spiritual universe. Thus, she symbolizes the human being in its entirety. As a result, those who believe in her must maintain a relationship of balance and reciprocity. 

De lugares y rituales: Agosto mes de la Pachamama

Bolivia mística, exótica y moderna. El lugar donde siempre hay algo que ver, visitar y hacer. Los lugares están revestidos con nombres exóticos, como ¨Camino de la muerte¨ ¨Mercado de las brujas¨ Laguna colorada¨ etc.  También sus diferentes actividades y celebraciones, nos transportan al mundo de lo místico y debido a la simbiosis cultural que tenemos siempre hay un buen motivo de  celebración, Agosto fue Mes de la Pachamama

Pachamana diosa de la tierra. Según los yatiris o sabios aymaras agosto es considerado como el periodo del Laqan pajxi (mes de la boca abierta), porque es el tiempo cuando la Pachamama abre su boca para recibir las ofrendas.

La cosmovisión andina nos enseña que todo tiene alma, todo vive; creyendo que no sólo las personas viven después de la muerte: las herramientas, los utensilios de casa, el suelo que se pisa, los cerros pequeños o grandes tienen ánima, están vivos y hay que estimarlos; siendo por ello que se preparan ofrendas. El ritual a la Pachamama  y la ofrenda se llama Koa que contiene dulces, koa (planta ceremonial), lana de colores, untu (grasa de camélido), “misterios” o simbología de la cultura kallawaya y aymara, mixtura y hojas de coca, además de los sullus o fetos de llama es entregada a la Pachamama como un símbolo de agradecimiento por la producción agrícola en el área rural y por la prosperidad de los negocios, la salud y la familia en las ciudades.

El término Pachamama se traduce al castellano como Madre Tierra, puesto que pacha es una palabra Quechua - Aymara y mara que en español significa tierra, cosmos, universo, tiempo, espacio y mama quiere decir madre.

El concepto de Pachamama guarda una directa relación con la riqueza agraria, ya que la economía de los pueblos originarios se basa en la producción agrícola. No obstante, una gran parte de la población urbana mantiene sus costumbres, creencias y mantienen vigencia en la sociedad moderna. Sin embargo sufrieron algunas alteraciones, al sincretizarse con la fe católica. Incluso, en algunas ceremonias, se adora a la Pachamama a través de la Virgen María.



Esta simbiosis se puede ver claramente en el cuadro “La Virgen del Cerro”, donde se observa que la Madre Tierra, representada por el cerro, además de ser la falda de la Virgen María queda por encima de la misma. 

Igualmente, en las reuniones sociales, es muy habitual que la Pachamama reciba los primeros tragos de cerveza, ya que los creyentes antes de llevarse el primer sorbo a la boca, dejan caer unos chorros sobre la tierra, a modo de agradecer y alimentar a la Pachamama.

En la cultura andina, la Pachama es la diosa protectora de todos los bienes materiales y, a la vez, domina el universo de lo espiritual. Por ello, simboliza al entorno del ser humano en su totalidad. En consecuencia, los que creen en ella deben mantener una relación de equilibrio y reciprocidad con la misma.

Gran Poder

The festival of Gran Poder is the clearest representation of multiculturalism in Bolivia.At 7:00 a.m. on Saturday, May 30th, the first fraternity (folkloric group) enters and the government headquarters initiates the party, with 65 fraternities showing their faith, gratitude and culture along the way. One of the most important reasons for this celebration is to worship and show devotion to the Lord Jesus del Gran Poder. This festival is one of the ways in which we celebrate what it means to be Andean.

The streets are filled with people and vendors of all kinds selling food, beer as well as other traders seeking the ability to sell their products more freely. The audience is diverse, with large families moving hurriedly from one place to another in search of a space, carrying even the smallest children.  Overall, Gran Poder is a cathartic experience where the community comes together with nature, affirming its willingness to ensure the survival of the Andean heritage.

The start of the Gran Poder is a religious holiday which is expressed through dance and rhythms from different regions.  Each and every one of the dances represents a region of the country, and all of these carry a story behind them. There are countless colors, masks, costumes, and decorations which can be seen in the moves of the fraternities, not to mention the spectacle of the bands. The vibrant sound of their instruments makes the people and the dancers feel the vibrant notes of Bolivian folkloric music.

The origin of the Fiesta del Gran Poder dates far back to December 8, 1663 when they founded the Convent of the Conception Mothers.  Since its creation this celebration has undergone some changes and incorporated new dances and fraternities.  In the 30s and 40s there was an integration of native bands from Los Yungas, with drumbeats which worshipped the image of the Lord Jesus del Gran Poder. Having become a departmental event in 1952, there were departmental Paceña dance festivals at the stadium, where the idea of a more organised event was realised, drawing together the various cultural ideas.  The new version of Gran Poder 2015 seeks to achieve the title of Intangible Heritage from UNESCO. 

Ñatitas

 Last weekend one of our Spanish teachers, Carlos was kind enough to take a group of students and staff to the Ñatitas celebration at Cementerio General. Although I had previously visited Ñatitas, it was great to have the opportunity to go with someone more knowledgeable about this uniquely Bolivian celebration. This is really a “you have to see it to believe” kind of thing. Arriving at the cemetery, one is confronted by an array of skulls adorned with hats, sunglasses, smoking cigarettes and garlands of flowers. Around the skulls, families gather, chatting and drinking coke while musical groups play traditional songs nearby. The atmosphere is incredibly festive and happy, providing a strange contrast to the backdrop of mausoleums and graves. 

Below, Carlos will give you the low-down on the roots of this incredible Bolivian tradition.

Carlos:

This party is basically about sharing bread, candles, coca leaves and even cigarettes with the soul of the person remaining in the skull. In return we receive protection and good luck. The skulls are commonly found in small businesses in the city or country, especially near the door. They like privacy which is why it is normally a little difficult to see them, unlike during the ceremony of Ñatitas where the skulls are publicly displayed in the cemetery.

There are many theories about the origins of the Ñatitas. Some believe this tradition comes from the Aymara culture. The Yatiris used these skulls as lucky charms, not just for protection, but also to predict the future. Ñatitas were also used to ward off black magic. People in those days were so afraid of black magic that they would have a skull for the protection of themselves and future generations. The Ñatitas made up part of their will and would be inherited by the children after the parents died.

Another theory about this tradition comes from the Chaco war. According to some researchers, a single old lady, whose only son disappeared in action during the war, went looking for him when the war ended. The lady had dreamed about him dying on the battlefield and desperately went to the "Chaco" where found only a skull and took it as if it were from her dead son. She cared for the skull by lighting candles, talking to it and sharing coca leaves with it. She said her son was home and he was taking care of her house and businesses - which improved incredibly. The neighbour who saw this believed they could receive the same good luck and protection from the skulls as this lady did.

No matter the origin of this tradition, people enjoy sharing a day dancing and singing with the Ñatitas. Even though this is maybe not seen as an important celebration, like All Saints Day for example, it is important for the believers like me :)

FESTIVAL OF TODOS SANTOS

The celebration of “Todos Santos” is a Catholic event for us to remember the dead. According to the Aymaran culutre, souls travel to the west and return during this festival to their place of origin.  During this celebration, the bereaved family gather around a special table to honor the deceased. This table is specially prepared for the occasion with fruits, breads, beverages and food that the deceased liked when they were alive.

The ingredients for a “Todos Santos” ceremony are:

The Tantawawa: This is a type of bread in the shape of a person. It is made with flour, water and butter. The Tantawawa bread represents the deceased.

The staircase: This is also a type of bread. According topopular Bolivian wisdom, it helps souls cross obstacles such as hills, rocks and high walls.

The Horses: Another type of bread, this time in the form of a horse. The horses are supposed to help souls carry their breads and others gifts when returning to heaven.

Chicha Morada: It is said that this drink quenches the thirst of the deceased. It is made of purple corn, sugar and lemon. Beer, soft drinks and other types of beverage can also be offered to the deceased.

Sugar cane: It symbolizes the shadow that requires a soul on sunny days.

Food: Consists of both traditional dishes and the deceased´s favourite dishes.

Candles: These illuminate the path of the souls.

Fruit: The fruit is selected depending on the favourites of the deceased.

Flowers: They are used to decorate the table and are also mainly chosen according to the taste and age of the deceased.

When clearing the table, the fruits, breads and drinks are given to people who say a prayer honoring the deceased.

By Alejandra León